Cosmetic companies systematically expand the range of their products, describing them as: dermo-cosmetics, drugstore cosmetics, natural, organic ... How then to choose the most suitable cosmetic for us? When making a decision, it is worth paying attention to information from the manufacturer.
Ingredient lists and nomenclature
In accordance with current legislation in the European Union, a list of ingredients must be given for each cosmetic product. This list can usually be found at the bottom of the packaging and is preceded by the word Ingredients. The raw materials used in the product are listed in descending order of content - from the highest to the lowest concentration. Compounds whose content in the cosmetic is less than 1% can be listed by the manufacturer in any order. It is worth noting, however, that the manufacturer is obliged to list all ingredients used in the cosmetic product, even if they are used in very low concentrations.
The rules of naming are established in accordance with the guidelines of international nomenclature of cosmetic ingredients, so called INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients).
To describe many popular ingredients English chemical terms or names defined by the European Pharmacopoeia are used. This rule applies to such ingredients as water (INCI: Water or Aqua), glycerin (INCI: Glycerin), propylene glycol (INCI: Propylene Glycol), glycerol stearate (Glyceryl Stearate), ethanol (INCI: Alcohol Denat.), petroleum jelly (INCI: Petrolatum), palmitic acid (INCI: Palmitic Acid), cetyl alcohol (INCI: Cetyl Alcohol).
For components derived from plant substances, the INCI term is composed of the Latin name, including the genus and species, sometimes also the part of the plant from which the raw material is derived, and the English term indicating which group of raw materials it belongs to. According to this principle, e.g. ginseng root extract (extract) in INCI can be described as: Panax Ginseng Extract or Panax Ginseng Root Extract.
Similarly, plant oils are named, with the difference that the word extract is replaced by the term oil - e.g. wheat germ oil according to INCI: Triticum Aestivum Germ Oil.
How do I make it easier to recognize the ingredients?
Essential oils are named in the same way as vegetable fats. However, taking into account the fact that both oil and essential oil are described in English with the word - Oil, this can cause considerable misinformation among potential users of cosmetics. It is difficult to distinguish on the basis of the INCI entry between these two groups of raw materials, different in terms of both their functions and amount used in cosmetics.
So how can we make it easier for ourselves? In a situation where the raw material is obtained from seeds, fruits or sprouts and has this information contained in the INCI name, you can assume that it will be an oil, such as argan oil (INCI: Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil). Essential oils are generally made from other parts of plants, including flowers, herbs, leaves, and bark.
However, there are exceptions. An example of this is the common carrot, where both oil and essential oil are produced from the seeds. Unfortunately for both of these raw materials the INCI name is the same: Daucus Carota Seed Oil.
The colorants used in cosmetics, both natural and synthetic, are identified by their Colour Index number - an encyclopaedic publication that registers colour raw materials approved worldwide for use in cosmetics. This specific colour number, preceded by the abbreviation CI, is the INCI name of the colour, with natural colours ranging from CI number 75100 to 77947.
In contrast to other raw materials, colorants are generally listed at the end of the ingredient list, regardless of the amount used in the cosmetic product. This rule also applies to products in which the raw materials are used in high concentrations, higher than other ingredients, which is the case in so-called colour cosmetics.
Fragrance compositions
All fragrance compositions introduced to a product, regardless of their origin, composition and sensory properties, are defined in INCI as Parfum. This rule also applies to articles such as perfumes, toilet waters and deodorants. If aromas are used in a cosmetic product, i.e. components that in addition to fragrance properties, provide the product with a pleasant taste sensation, which is important in the case of products that come into contact with the oral cavity - they are referred to in the composition as Aroma.
The list of raw materials listed among cosmetic ingredients may be extended to include certain fragrance compounds that are classified as potential allergens. The Cosmetics Act provides a list of 26 substances that, in accordance with EU legislation, must be listed under certain circumstances according to their INCI names.
For products that remain on the skin (skin care and beauty products), information on fragrance allergens is required if their concentration in the cosmetic product exceeds 0.001%. For rinse-off products, i.e. shampoos and cleansers due to the short period of contact with the skin, the threshold is higher and amounts to 0.01%. If the content of any allergen exceeds the given values, it should be listed in the ingredient list in order of concentration.
Finally, it is worth noting that the essential quality characteristics relating to a particular cosmetic preparation should be consistent with the list of ingredients on its packaging. This list identifies raw materials, determines their activity and verifies limitations in their use.
Long-time employee of the Faculty of Biotechnology and Food Sciences at the Lodz University of Technology.
